Where the Mountains Whisper and the Lake Reflects: A Kailash Manasarovar Story
In July 2024, we embarked on a journey that transcended the boundaries of a mere pilgrimage - it was a profound spiritual odyssey to the revered Mount Kailash and the holy waters of Lake Manasarovar. This journey pushed the limits of both our physical endurance and spiritual resolve. As I traversed the rugged terrains of Tibet, braving the thin, oxygen-deprived air at high altitudes, and immersing myself in the serene, mystical surroundings, I couldn't help but wonder if I was truly connecting with the universal energy-or if it was just the overwhelming beauty of the place that made me feel that way.
In this writeup, I tried to pen my experiences, challenges, and the indescribable peace that enveloped me during this revered trek.
Arrived at Khatmandu, Nepal
Day-1:
- Arrived in Kathmandu and made our way to the heart of Thamel for an overnight stay at the Apsara Hotel.
- The evening was spent meandering through the lively, colorful streets of Thamel, where Sabitha explored a few charming shops, soaking in the vibrant atmosphere.
- As night fell, we returned to the comfort of our hotel, drifting into a peaceful, well-deserved sleep.
Day 2
- Started the day with a delightful hotel breakfast: puri bhaji, steamed veggies, and enough coffee and tea to jumpstart a small village.
- Hopped into a cab to Chandragiri Hills to visit Bhaleshwar Mahadev. Took the ropeway up to 2551 meters, where we were practically skydiving. Locks with wishes everywhere—who knew this was a thing?
- Explored the ancient Swayambhunath, a Buddhist Sthupa also locally called as Monkey Temple, perched 5-6 km from Chandragiri. The stupa’s history echoed through its sacred grounds.
- Engaged in some shopping at the stupa, captivated by a loquacious vendor whose name escapes us. His stories and charisma kept us shopping for over an hour, leading to the purchase of rudraksha and saligram malas, along with an array of unique necklaces and treasures.
- Then visited the actual stupa, where a serene darshan offered a glimpse into the mystical world of Buddhist temples and their history
- Spent sometime finding Sabitha’s missing phone. Had to go back to Chandragiri to bring back her phone kept at lost and found. finally back at the hotel
- After a much-needed coffee, we hit the streets of Thamel, diving into some shopping that put our wallets on a diet.
- Had Nepalese momos for dinner, enjoying every bite of this local delicacy
Day: 3 - Journey to Mukthinath: A Spiritual and Scenic Adventure
As the weather was getting better, Raj Kumar, our tour guide decided it was the perfect time to ascend to Mukthinath via Pokhara. We headed to Pokhara Airport, packed breakfast in hand, and took a brief 25-minute flight to begin our adventure.
Our journey began at the tranquil Feva Lake, where the calm waters mirrored the morning sky. We paused at Naya pool for a chai break, savoring the warmth of the tea and some Nepali Roti with Chana Sabji while we were soaked in the beauty around us
The Majestic Kala Gandaki River: The road led us to the mighty Kala Gandaki River, its dark waters flowing with an ancient rhythm. The stories of Raos had prepared us for the worst, but reality was kinder. Perhaps, forewarning had softened our expectations.
Lunch at Dana in Mekdi District: Dana welcomed us for lunch, a picturesque stop in the Mekdi District. The cascading waterfalls and the imposing black Gandaki River painted a picturesque backdrop, making our meal an experience in itself.
The Kaifu Village Checkpoint: We passed through Kaifu Village checkpoint, a small yet significant milestone on our journey. Each turn of the road brought us closer to our destination, with the anticipation building steadily.
Ascending to Mukthinath: At around 12,000 feet, we reached Mukthinath. The ride was breathtaking, though the thin air brought a hint of discomfort and dizziness. The slight struggle only made the experience more profound.
A Holy Ritual: At Mukthinath, we participated in a sacred ritual, bathing under the 108 outlets of the spring water. The cold, pure water rejuvenated us, and a dip in the twin ponds (Kunds) added to the sanctity. A female pujari guided us through the process, her presence adding a unique touch to the ceremony.
Perfect Weather and a Peaceful Return:
The weather was perfect, with not a drop of rain. We made our way back to Jomsum, where dinner awaited us at Hotel Sunrise. As we settled in for the night, the day's experiences played in our minds, etching memories that would last a lifetime.
This journey was more than just a travel tale; it was a tapestry of nature's beauty, spiritual cleansing, and the joy of discovery
Day 4: Return from Jomsum
Heavy rain in the night set the stage for our return to Jomsom, creating an atmosphere of excitement and uncertainty. As we journeyed back, we encountered 6-7 landslides, each one a daunting obstacle. Waiting for the JCB to clear the road turned into an unexpected adventure, with every rumble of shifting earth sending a thrill down our spines.
At one point, a massive boulder teetered on the edge, ready to crash down. Raj Kumar, our tour guide, ever cautious, halted our progress, but eventually, we had to push on without waiting for the boulder to fall.
The danger only added to the excitement, transforming our day off into an exhilarating and unforgettable experience.
Halted for light yet delicious lunch at Taj Mahal restaurant at Galeshwor, Magdy
Before our return flight to Kathmandu, we made a memorable visit to the Siva and Parvati Temple in Pumdikot, Pokhara. Perched at an elevation of 4,500 feet, the temple offered stunning views and a serene atmosphere, making it a perfect final stop on our journey.
Day 5 - sort of a leisure day
This morning, there was a slight tiff between Sabitha and me that left us in a funk. Despite that, we powered through and visited Someshwar Mahadev, Kailash Nath, and Boudhanath Stupa. Nothing like sightseeing with a side of sulking!
In the evening, we gathered for a concise briefing about our upcoming Mansarovar journey starting on the 13th of July. After a light snack, we were ready for some shopping in Thamel. We returned to our room for a short rest. Sabitha asked about the plan for the Pashupatinath Harathi, and I mentioned that Basuji hadn’t brought it up.
Then, out of the blue, our tour manager Ranjan announced that the bus was about to leave for the Harathi. In a flurry of excitement, we rushed and jumped into the van. As luck would have it, someone had bought Harathi tickets but opted out at the last minute, so we were accommodated in their place.
Watching the Aarti was an absolute delight, especially with our Gotra namas. The ceremony lasted for over an hour, and it was an experience like no other. The priests moved and chanted in perfect synchrony, creating a mesmerizing and spiritual atmosphere that left us in awe.
And the musical presentation – words cannot do it justice. The band sang Siva Aarti and other devotional hymns with such passion and reverence that it moved our souls. We all felt that vibration, a powerful and uplifting energy resonating deeply within us. The blend of traditional instruments and melodic voices transported us to a divine realm. It was an unforgettable evening, one that will remain etched in our memories forever.
Overall day went really well and was a memorable one
Day - 6:
Rudrabhishekam at Pashupatinath Temple marked the beginning of our Mansarovar Yatra and was a prayer for a smooth journey.
What can I say about the Rudrabhishekam! Oh, by the way, it was Ekadasa Rudram performed by 11 Ritviks. Their chanting was music to our ears, lifting our spirits to another orbit. It was truly an unforgettable experience.
Afterward, we returned to the hotel for lunch and a couple of hours of well-deserved rest.
In the evening, we embarked on a captivating journey to the mystical Budda Neelkanth temple. Nestled amidst lush greenery, the temple exuded an aura of tranquility and spiritual energy. The sleeping statue of Lord Vishnu, depicted as the Blue-Throated One, sleeps majestically, casting a serene presence over the surroundings.
Day 7: Timure
We enjoyed a delicious Nepali thali lunch on our way to the Nepal border. Along the route, we had a photo session at the breathtaking Langtang National Park viewpoint.
At the Nepal border, we got our exit stamps, even though we were leaving on the 14th, we managed to get them done on the 13th. Then we all had a pleasant walk from the immigration office to the China border and back to the hotel.
Day 8: Ghatte Khola
We walked to the immigration office and spent a couple of hours there. Afterward, we boarded our Tibetan buses, guided by our indispensable Tibetan guide, whose expertise and knowledge were crucial for our journey. With their guidance, we eagerly set off for our next destination. During the journey, the atmosphere was filled with energy as Mrs. Rajini and Ms. Victoria led us in chanting Omkaaram, followed by some uplifting bhajans.
By 1:30 local time, we arrived in Kerung. We savored the local tea and snacks, then enjoyed a lively game of cards with Akhil, Nikhil, the Ashok family, and Savitri garu. Lunch was a feast for the senses, and afterward, we took a refreshing walk and indulged in some shopping, soaking in the vibrant local culture.
Excitement buzzes in the air as we prepare to leave tomorrow at 1 pm, after lunch, to better acclimatize to the altitude. We’ll be ascending to Saga, which stands at a breathtaking 4,500 meters above sea level. Thanks to our expert Tibetan guide, we are confident and ready for the challenges ahead.
Day 9: July 15 - Journey to Saga
We began our ascent to Saga, passing Kera water Fall along the way. After the tunnel, we reached an elevation of 15,580 feet, with the salt lake on our left as we journeyed towards Saga, Tibet/China. The tunnel itself, an engineering marvel, cut through the rugged mountains and offered a glimpse into the region's challenging terrain. Emerging from the mist-shrouded tunnel, we were greeted by the vast expanse of the Tibetan plateau.
The road to Saga was a scenic route, winding through the Transhimalaya range with panoramic views of snow-capped peaks and deep valleys. The shimmering waters of the salt lake contrasted beautifully with the arid landscape, creating a surreal and tranquil scene. The rugged terrain, characterized by rocky outcrops and sparse vegetation, showcased the raw, untouched beauty of the region.
Sabitha remarked, "the journey to Kailash makes you feel the vibrations."
Accompanied by Shiva hymns, Rudram, and other bhajans, our drive to Kailash was truly beautiful, vibrant, and emotional. The spiritual ambiance created by the hymns enhanced our sense of reverence and connection to the sacred land of Kailash. The stunning scenery and spiritual vibrations evoked profound emotions, making the journey transformative
Shopping in Saga was an experience. The shopkeepers didn't know English, and we didn't know Chinese, which made it quite interesting. They used an app where we either typed or spoke, and it translated our words into Mandarin. That's how we managed to communicate and complete our shopping.
As the day came to a close, we enjoyed a light dinner, reflecting on our incredible journey and sharing stories from our adventures. The anticipation of what the next day would bring filled us with excitement, and we fell asleep quickly.
Day 10: July 16 - our journey to Paryang
We woke up refreshed, ready to embrace a new day with renewed energy and a sense of wonder for the journey ahead.
After a light breakfast, we set off towards our next stop before Kailash. Each mile brought us closer to our destination, heightening our anticipation. The drive from Saga to Paryang unfolde
d like a surreal painting. The vast plateau was adorned with lush vegetation, and yaks grazed serenely while huskies playfully chased them. The tranquility of the journey, coupled with some excellent roads, made the experience even more enchanting as we ascended to 14,900 feet.
We paused for lunch at a picturesque spot, a serene picnic destination. Although the meal was delicious, our stomachs weren’t quite prepared for the heavy fare. Nonetheless, we pressed on, each bend in the road offering new wonders. A stop at a breathtaking viewpoint rewarded us with stunning vistas of the Brahmaputra river snaking through the valley and the green lake merging with its mighty flow.
By the time we reached Paryang, the day's adventure had fille
d us with awe. The hotel was a welcome sight, promising rest and comfort after a day of marvels.
Day 11: July 17 Darchin
After a good night’s sleep, we woke up feeling refreshed but restless with anticipation. We came down for breakfast and then set off on our journey to Darchen.
For the next hour and a half, we drove while chanting the Vishnushahasra Namam and other stotras suitable for Ekadasi. At a check post, we were held up for about an hour before resuming our journey. Eventually, we stopped for a lunch break at a scenic spot along the road.
After what felt like an eternity, we finally set off for Manasarovar. The road was eerily quiet, with barely a car in sight, adding to our growing anticipation. Our excitement was palpable; we could hardly contain ourselves as we neared our destination. And then, at long last, it came into view... MANASAROVAR 🙌🏼. The sight was nothing short of breathtaking. There, before us, stood the majestic Mount Kailash, perfectly mirrored in the serene waters of Manasarovar. It was a moment of sheer wonder and awe.
The first glimpse was surreal and breathtaking, almost otherworldly. The Himalayan Glory team had to call us for lunch multiple times, as we were utterly entranced by the view. After finally tearing ourselves away for lunch, we journeyed to the lake on the south face.
There, amidst the echoes of our chanting and religious rituals, we filled our bottles with the sacred Manasarovar water. We then ventured to the Rakshas Kund, the ominous demon pool. The daunting Ravan kund loomed over us, a true test of our resolve. After conquering it, we returned to the bus, our spirits both exhausted and exhilarated.
The day concluded at the Satchel Hotel, a marvel of modern luxury, equipped with state-of-the-art sensors and a stunning projector screen TV, offering a perfect blend of comfort and cutting-edge technology.
Day 12: July 18
The journey from Yamdwar to Derapuch Monastery was nothing short of epic. Every step of the walk was fantastic, filled with thrilling ups and downs. The four uphill climbs tested our endurance, each one more challenging than the last. Horses galloped back and forth, adding to the sense of adventure.
To our left, a river coursed through the landscape, framed by towering mountains in the distance; to our right, another majestic mountain rose sharply against the sky. By the time we reached our hotel, a humble abode, we were exhilarated and exhausted. Sharing a room with Ashok and Rinku in this basic hotel added to the camaraderie of the journey, making it an unforgettable experience.
Day 13: July 19
We woke up bursting with energy, all our aches and pains miraculously gone. After a hearty breakfast, we eagerly set off on our hike to Kailash Charan Sparsh. The trail was challenging, with a thrilling ascent of 1,200 feet from our humble hotel.
Returning exhilarated, we shared our adventure stories over lunch and took a well-deserved rest. The day ended with a breathtaking sunset that painted the sky in vibrant hues. Exhausted but fulfilled, we finally drifted off to sleep, our hearts still racing from the day's excitement.
Day 14: July 20th
The toughest part of the tour began when we woke up at seven. After brushing our teeth and having some tea and snacks, we set off for Dolma La Pass. We gained an elevation of 5,440 meters (18,400 feet). From there, we continued to Gouri Kund—a stunning sight that was a true feast for the eyes.
After admiring the beauty, we descended about 1,000 feet. Some of our group opted for ponies to make the journey easier. By 6:15 pm, we all arrived at Zutulpuch Monastery, where we would rest for the night. It was heartwarming to see everyone arriving at their own pace, with cheers and encouragement from fellow travelers.
The path from Dolma La Pass to Zutulpuch was breathtaking, offering incredible views of Mount Kailash from the southeast corner. IT. WAS. GREAT. At the monastery, we enjoyed refreshments, including hot Maggi soup, tea, and coffee. Everyone shared their experiences, chatting about the events of the past two days. It was an amazing and unforgettable journey.
Day 15: July 21
The final Stretch of Parikrama
After a rejuvenating break with tea, coffee, and snacks, we’re ready for the most challenging part of our journey. The anticipation is palpable as we set off on the final 6 km of our Parikrama. Each step is a testament to our endurance, our spirits lifted by the promise of completion.
As we push forward, the terrain tests our resolve, but the camaraderie and shared determination keep us moving. The finish line is in sight, and with every step, we feel a mix of exhaustion and exhilaration.
Finally, we board the bus to Darchen, our bodies weary but our hearts full. The prospect of a well-deserved breakfast energizes us, and the sense of accomplishment begins to sink in.
Arriving in Darchen, we savor our breakfast, each bite a reward for our perseverance. The journey has been long and arduous, but the end is near. We head to our humble mud house, a sanctuary where we can finally rest and reflect on the incredible feat we’ve achieved.
Tonight, we rest not just our bodies but our minds, knowing that we’ve completed something truly extraordinary.
Day 16: July 22
We began our journey to Saga, pausing briefly at the place where our Parikrama had begun. Sabitha indulged in a bit of shopping, and within 10 minutes, we were back on the road.
The drive to Saga unfolded like a living painting, with snow-capped peaks towering majestically above layers of green and brown mountains. These natural wonders, interspersed with occasional mud homes, created a landscape so breathtaking that no photo or video could do it justice.
Bhajans playing softly in the background enhanced the tranquility of the scenery. As we crossed the Parikrama starting point, the mood shifted, and Hindi songs filled the air, rejuvenating our weary group with lively tunes.
We paused for a delightful lunch at the Golden Yak picnic spot qbefore continuing our journey. After a long, enchanting nine-hour drive, we finally reached the Saga hotel and quickly dosed off, our hearts full of the day's beauty.
Day 17: July 23
We woke up refreshed after a good night's sleep, enjoyed breakfast, and set off for Kerung. As usual, Panditji gathered everyone off the bus for a morning puja before we continued our journey.
We stopped at the Brahmaputra crossing to collect some holy water and capture a few pictures before heading towards Kerung. Akhil and Nikhil kept us entertained with their melodious karnatic keerthans, and as we entered the tunnel, Akhil began singing his keerthana, “Srimannarayana…”
We played Antakshari and made a stop at the stunning Kaire waterfall before heading straight to the Kerung hotel.
After a light lunch, we went out to buy a bottle for Kailash glacier water, rested for a bit, and then gathered for our final supper with the entire crew. Since the Tibetan team would be staying behind, this was our farewell dinner. We enjoyed pizza, momos, and delicious apple pie, spoke from the heart, and shared a warm farewell. Afterwards, we returned to our hotel rooms for the night.
Day 18: July 24
Breakfast and daily puja with Panditji started our day. On the bus, we made our way to the Tibet/China visa office. As we descended from Kerung toward the Tibet/China and Nepal border, the view of clouds drifting between the majestic green mountains was a beautiful distraction.
Our day involved a lot of waiting at the immigration office, a test of patience. To pass the time, we enjoyed a hearty Nepali thali, a comforting meal during this lengthy process.
Overall, it was a profoundly satisfying Yatra, a thrilling odyssey of spiritual enlightenment and physical endurance. Each moment was charged with intense, transformative energy. Despite carrying sunscreen, our excitement and immersion in the journey left it mostly unused, resulting in sunburns. These became our badges of honour, vivid markers of the parikrama's gruelling yet enlightening power—a testament to our spiritual and physical victories.
The journey was a surprisingly pleasant trek. Though the thin air and low oxygen levels added to the experience, Sabitha and I embraced it with enthusiasm. Every step felt fulfilling as we moved forward, driven by a higher purpose. We welcomed the natural conditions with open hearts, making the experience more than just a pilgrimage - it was a joyful voyage of discovery and resilience. This yatra left us with lasting memories of our strength, faith, and the beauty of the adventure.
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